美國加州聖地牙哥台灣同鄉會
San Diego Taiwanese Cultural Association
http://www.taiwancenter.com/sdtca/index.html
  2016 年 10 月

What is Kobe beef?  
By Yuju Eric Lee

In the world of foodies and culinary pundits, Kobe beef is hailed as the epitome of beef for its unrivaled fattiness and silky-smooth texture. It is also a highly exclusive product with limited exports from Japan to the rest of the world. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to travel to Kobe and taste this exotic meat in the form of teppanyaki steak at Ishida Kitanozaka, and I’d like to share my experience with you.

To appreciate the rich tenderness of the Japanese national treasure that is the Kobe beef, one must understand its origin and its merits. As many have guessed, Kobe beef is cultivated from the Tajima (但馬) strain of Black Wagyu (lit. “Japanese cow”, 和牛) cattle raised in Hyogo Prefecture, in which Kobe’s the capital of, granting the beef its iconic namesake. It is said that the beef’s unique taste and texture can be attributed to the cattle’s eccentric feeding technique and isolation. These cows eat organic feed, get massaged daily, and listen to classical music.

The Wagyu beef is graded in a system of letters and numbers; the tradition follows a single letter from A to C, paired up by a number from 1 to 5. The letter determines the yield grade, or how generous the proportion of the beef is, with C being below standard to A being above standard. The number determines marbling, or the tenderness and amount of the thin strips of fat in beef, as well as the beef’s texture, color, and quality of the fat, with 1 being the poorest and 5 being the best. The marbling of the beef is further classified by the BMS (beef marbling ratio,) a number ranging from 1 – 12, from poor to excellent. In order for beef to be true Kobe beef, it must have a grade of A4 or A5, with a BMS of 6 or greater. As you can see, even the lesser denominations of Kobe beef are miles above regular beef in terms of taste and flavor.

So how does it hold true in reality? We’ve all heard of the marvels surrounding such a heavenly piece of exquisitely-prepared plate of bovine remains, and we’ve all know that Japanese have been known to over-exaggerate their expressions and, impressively, admittedly, fulfill them.

I personally picked out Ishida when my family visited Kobe, as this restaurant is ranked #2 in Kobe beef cuisine on Trip Advisor. While I’m not sure how much that merits a restaurant of palatable foods, I’m thoroughly impressed. All three of us ordered the “Specially Selected Kobe Beef Lunch A5 BMS Value (8-11)” lunch special for 8,500 yen ($85) each; a six-course meal prepared by a seasoned chef.

Main course: The beef slice were neatly presented on a plate and I was provided with five different types of condiments: sea salt, rock salt, pepper, sesame oil with vinegar and radish, and soy sauce. The taste of the beef is truly incredible. When coupled with salt, the meat is buffed with a very sharp saltiness that does not get overwhelmed by the fattiness of the beef, and when coupled with the oil, the meat becomes surprisingly refreshing, a sweet and sour taste surrounds the mouth as the beef melts on top of the tongue. Now, the texture of the meat, personally, I’m not a fan of. I believe in the quality of the beef, but as it turns out, the incredibly fatty and slippery beef reminds me too much of a dessert. For those of you who’re curious about the texture of Kobe beef, a close substitute is overnight Jell-O. After dinner, make a tray of lemon or strawberry or orange Jell-O, put it in a fridge, take it out so you got a clear delicious rectangle of flavor gelatin that’s all jiggling and undulating as you gently poke at it, now leave it on the table and go to sleep. Next morning, come back to the Jell-O; it should be wasting away, abandoning its previously-presentable form, and a puddle of Jell-O juice should be at its foot. Now take a bite out of that crumbling Jell-O. That’s about what Kobe beef feels like in between your biters.

But of course, I’m exaggerating, but the Japanese have a penchant for fulfilling such exaggerations, so I’m very impressed. The meat does melt in my mouth.

In conclusion, it’s another item crossed off of my foodie bucket list. It was a unique and surprisingly affordable culinary experience to finally debunk the hype surrounding this supposedly divine bovine cuisine. The taste was outstanding; its savory flavor, while prompting me to drink cups after cups of water, were a blast and not dull for even a second, as there are numerous ways to pair the beef with the condiments provided. The texture I disagree with, but I’m sure a lot of people will love it. Like ice cream or chicken and waffles, Kobe beef is a highly indulgent product.

Will I visit Kobe beef again? Highly unlikely, as I will ditch Kobe beef for a 16 Oz New York strip anytime.